Kittur is a historical gem of India, buried in the sands of time. Her legendary tales of courage are forgotten. How a brave queen clad in a saree, mounted on a horse, skillfully wielded her sword in combat to protect her people from vicious invaders, no longer makes bedtime stories for kids.

Well..Until now.

Here at Three Tickets Please, we resurrect epic tales of lionhearted kings and queens to revive lost sagas. The story of Kittur is one such truth – It’s not a myth, not a folkloric fantasy but an inspiring reality.

A Day trip from Belgaum to Kittur

Rani Chennamma was the warrior queen of Kittur in the 1800’s. It is a former princely state of South India, located 50 Kms outside the modern day city of Belgaum (Belagavi) and 113 Kms from the touristy beaches of Goa.

Kittur and Chennamma are two inseparable words said in the same breath by locals.

 Chennamma – The warrior Queen

Kittur for the most part, is lost in the pages of history. It doesn’t feature on most people’s travel wish-list. But it did on ours. For it had everything that enthralls us.

Heroic legends and bold resistance, audacious dose of treachery mixed with a braveheart’s relentless fight for Freedom.

Freedom is not free and Kittur brings home this point. What was once a prosperous kingdom with a massive fort and a palace within, is in pieces today. However the crumbling fragments of Kittur have an eerie appeal to them.

The British Colonial power had occupied India in the early 1800s. They first came into the country disguised as traders of East India Company and quickly morphed into invaders evicting the indigenous people from their own homeland. But this defiant queen was going nowhere.

The Story of Kittur

Grief had consumed Rani Chennamma when she lost her only son and her husband in 1824 leaving her an unstable kingdom to command. That’s when she held the reigns of the empire and decided to nurture and protect the people of Kittur like her own child.

After colonizing India, the British forces lay siege to the fort hurling cannon balls but Kittur fort stayed strong. Made from a unique type of red granite, the castle was impregnable.

With the enemy at her gates, the peace loving queen had no choice but to lead an armed rebellion to uphold her kingdom’s honor. She and her army vanquished the enemy despite being numerically inferior. Chennamma is the first ever Indian queen to  fight the Colonial invaders and is a forerunner to Jhansi – ki – Rani, predating her by 30 years.

After a treaty with the British confirming that they will not attack Kittur again if their captured soldiers are returned, the queen  released the captive army.

What followed next was treason and betrayal.

The enemy attacked again with a greater military might and this time in conjunction with a traitor. The cannons of Kittur failed at the most critical time in battle. The traitor had adulterated it’s gunpowder, rendering the cannons completely useless when they were needed for self-defense the most. The fort fell into enemy hands and they ransacked the immense amount of wealth from it’s treasury.

Rani Chennamma of Kittur gave up her own freedom for the Liberty of her people and country. Her triumphant statue today,  serves as the the focal point of Belgaum.

The battle of Kittur laid the foundation for several uprisings across the country and eventually earned India her independence.

What to See in Kittur?

There are 3 main areas that you can explore in Kittur Fort and will take you 2-3 hours at the most to cover all of it.

1.Ruins/Grounds / various “rooms” like ammunition storehouse / court hall

2. Watch Tower and Fort Ramparts

3. Museum with original artifacts and statues

We wandered in all the ruins and explored every nook of the site. There is a pillar with the coat of arms of Kittur depicting a bullock. I wanted to know more about its symbolism but there were no guides around. You can walk to the bastions, visit the cisterns and cannons.

Like most traditions of India, astronomy was crucial in deciding important occasions. But unlike most other traditions, in this part of India, Dhruv or the Pole star was considered very significant. There is a room called the Pole Star Room, with a telescope-like contraption where you can enter and experience the stars for yourself.

There is a small museum as well, that tells of an endearing story of how the king and queen met in a forest. Authentic artifacts like bloodstained armors and swords leave a lasting impact.

 

We were the only visitors touring the place and Kittur fort appeared to be in an unappreciated state of neglect. Sprawling gulmohar trees spread out while the ancient bricks whispered stories of deceit. You can walk in the same court hall where the queen and her courtiers strategized the war.

 

How to reach Kittur?

The best and quickest way is by car. Kittur is a 50 minute drive from Belagavi and a little over an hour from Hubli by car. The drive itself is nothing special, but as you enter into the town of Kittur, Bronze statues of Rani Chennamma and her loyal commander-in-chief Sangolli Rayanna welcome you. It’s then that their magic begins to set in.

Of the mighty 3 – storied palace, only a few vandalized yet ornamental arches remain. Well maintained lawns and gardens offer a refreshing greenery in the summer months.

There are no restaurants or cafes nearby so its better to pack your own lunch if you get peckish after too much sightseeing!  It’s an easy and short day trip from Belgaum and we highly recommend it for history buffs.

That’s it from us ! I’ll See you next week with more unique destinations that deserve your patronage 🙂

Hope you enjoyed reading this piece. If you are looking for a completely different and decadent experience than what you just read then check these out –

Get Spoilt in the Lap of Luxury at Bali

Explore the colorful markets of Morocco